I remember it well. It was a cold winter’s day in my hometown, and my family and I ventured out to a new restaurant that everyone in the quiet river city was raving about. Sure, I was simply heading to dinner, but looking back, I was doing much more than that by entering this mysterious establishment. I speak of Golden China, and though it has since closed its hallowed halls to diners, the effects of its profound impact are still felt today (and I’m pretty sure that is not digestion-related). I have the opportunity to break bread regularly with goo

d friends, and we often decide on Chinese cuisine. Yeah, everyone likes Chinese food, but a more important question begs to be answered. Are the American people giving the Chinese buffet the respect which it so unquestionably deserves? Ladies and gentleman, gather ‘round, grab a nice bowl of Lo Mien, and listen as I extol the virtues of the pinnacle of budget ethnic dining, the Chinese buffet.
There are few places that can inspire the sense of wonder and enchantment that a Chinese buffet cam. The Great Wall, the Pyramids, Outer Space, all wondrous yes, but can you walk away from them with a piping hot Crab Rangoon in hand? I think not. The true magic of an excellent “china meal” as we call it, revolves around three key variables – the atmosphere, the food, and of course, the clientele who frequent the place. When these three come together in just the right way, the heavens part, the stars align, and we are treated to a dining experience that simply cannot be surpassed. In this first installment of my three-part epic on the glory that is all-you-can-eat Chinese dining, I explore the atmosphere and setting of the Chinese buffet.
The Arena When considering the atmosphere of a Chinese buffet, a number of factors contribute to whether or not the experience there will be an enjoyable one. Location can pretty much dictate the type of buffet you’re about to enter, and I’ve found that there are generally three varieties – the palace, the dive, and the middle-ground. The palace is the type of buffet that just quite frankly goes all out to impress you. Not only does it feel more like a hotel lobby than a restaurant, but every single item is polished to a shine. If you’re actually going to have a waiter during a China buffet experience, this shrine to General Tso is where you’ll find it. Moving on, the dive describes that place you see as you drive home from work everyday, and though you know it involves Chinese cuisine, you’re not quite sure if it’s been closed/condemned or if they are open for business. It’s worth noting that some of the best Chinese I’ve ever had has come from a dive (HAPPY GARDEN!) Finally, we have the middle of the road buffet, which brings em’ in every day. This is where you’ll find your large family outings, questionable sanitation standards, and average cuisine.
The name of the restaurant is crucial, and I feel that I’ve discovered the secret to the Chinese buffet naming convention. Basically, the name must involve one of the following eight words as

required by state law – Happy, Dragon, Forbidden, Garden, Panda, Lucky, Wok, and Taste. Additionally, the buffet must be built around or include a mural and/or painting of at least one of the following three images (bonus points are given for a combination) – the Great Wall of China, a dragon with claws spread striking a menacing pose, or a night shot of a busy Chinese city, typically by a waterfront. You also need to see a hand-written sign, usually close to the register, that is trying to communicate something in a form of English that defies all laws of grammar and punctuation. For example, classics from a recent trip to the buffet include, “Closed holiday hour (5.95) chicken stick w/ prok fried rice,” all on one sign, and “Please enjoy drink your own – (left) no refill.” Well said, indeed.
The remaining cornerstones that contribute to the atmosphere of a Chinese buffet are food placement, music, glass size, and the service. If the food placement, meaning the locations of the various bars of the buffet are indeed awry, the experience really is hard to enjoy. For example, let’s keep the American foods away from the Chinese foods. Is it that hard to find room for the fucking onion rings other than next to my sweet and sour chicken? Also don’t put that nasty excuse for pizza, which is only there for kids by the way, next to the real Chinese cuisine. (Look, I’m sorry, lady, that your picky little bastard kid doesn’t like Chinese, but I hear there’s this place where a clown will sell you a happy meal right down the road.) The music can also really add some sizzle to the china experience. Some owners clearly just say “fuck it” and play the local

radio station, while others stay true to their roots. Often it is a Chinese vocalist singing a Beijing original, but sometimes, on a lucky day, we hear it. I’ll vaguely recognize a melody, and then yes, yes it’s true…. a Chinese version of Michael Bolton’s “How Am I Supposed to Live Without You” is making sweet, sweet love to my eardrums. Quite frankly, it doesn’t get any better than that.
It’s also important to note the crucial nature of the drinking glass size. We often visit a local establishment, let’s call it Best Taste China Buffet, and while the food is very good, the glass size is small enough to make reconsider stopping in there. Is it a Chinese custom to serve shot glasses with your meal? I understand tea cups, but dammit, when is the last time you went into a 7-11 and bought a 5 oz. Pepsi? I like a decent-sized glass for my beverage, and don’t give me the crap about unlimited refills because there is something unpleasant about getting up for a drink 12 times during one meal. Not only do I have to go two at a time, but each time up means walking past hordes of diners running back and forth and wolfing down food like this may be their last meal.
Finally, the service at a restaurant like this can make or break the experience. It’s an odd relationship, I and the waitress, because the question always arises…”Since all she is doing is clearing the plates, is a tip necessary?” I’m a big fan of the Hispanic fellow at China Buffet in Bloomington, IN who doesn’t even try to work quickly. He simply puts his headphones on, pushes his cart up and down the aisles, and buses tables. When he approaches your table, there is a half-ass attempt at asking if you’re finished, but you just better go ahead and hand-stuff that last bit of lo mien into your face because the plate is going away regardless. It’s as if he’s saying, “Look, we know you’re fucking our bottom line because of how much you’re eating vs. $5.25 we charge, so if you’re gonna play, you’re playing by our rules.” I love hospitality. Plus, the buffet crew is always willing to work with you on the seating arrangements.

I’ll never forget the day my good friend Jake Oakman and I visited 8 China Buffet and witnessed the greatest seat change ever, and I mean EVER. A woman storms the front counter workers as we’re waiting to pay and kindly says, “I AM READY TO MOVE! SHE SAID FUCK YOU TO ME!!! THAT BITCH SAID FUCK YOU TO ME, I AM READY TO MOVE!” To this day, we’re not sure what happened. Speculation included everything from this woman encountering a long vanquished rival, her waitress telling her “fuck you’ thus making her “ready to move,” or as I assumed, her lesbian partner said “fuck you” and there was a moving truck outside waiting for her to move. Regardless, she was promptly seated elsewhere, and that’s the kind of service you can expect from a great Chinese buffet.
Next week, Part II – The Cuisine.